Can you e-mail photos of your drain? I might be able to identify the drain type and better advise you. Send to bob [at] handymanhowto.com
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By: Bob Jackson
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By: Bob Jackson
Can you describe in more detail what’s you’re seeing?
But “yes” a shower drain leak will wet the subfloor and ceiling below which will stay damp for days because there’s no air circulation.
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By: Willie Ramirez
Bob,
I found your repair instructions after searching the Internet. My second level shower began leaking (16 year old home). To my delight, the photos used in your instructions for “How to Fix a Leaky Shower” are the identical to shower. The exact Sioux Chief drain, screw-in model and sub-floor/pan fixture. It was as if your instructions were made for my shower.
Many thanks to your for this post! I’m assuming I should expect the rubber gasket will fail again (10-15 years). This must be common given the movement the shower pan will experience over time.
Willie
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By: Bob Jackson
Hi Kathy,
If your shower drain has <a href="http://www.handymanhowto.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/dsc02518.jpg" title="Shower Drain Repair: Course and Fine Thread Drains" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">course or wide threads</a> and is stamped with a North Carolina identifier, it was likely made by <a href="http://plasticoddities.com/contact-us/" title="Plastic Oddities, Inc." target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Plastic Oddities</a> in Forest City, NC.
My 2 inch shower drain with wide threads turned out to be a Plastic Oddities model <a href="http://plasticoddities.com/fiberglass-shower-drain-2/" title="Plastic Oddities 2 inch shower drain model PFG600 " target="_blank" rel="nofollow">PFG600</a>. I later bought a PFG600 shower drain direct from Plastic Oddities (1-800-438-5327) and it was an exact replacement.
The PFG600 has a white PVC body. Since your drain is black it was probably the BFG600 made of black PVC. The parts are identical only the color is different.
The details are illustrated in <a href="http://www.handymanhowto.com/how-to-fix-a-leaky-shower-drain-part-3/http://" title="How to Fix a Leaky Shower Drain – Part 3" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">How to Fix a Leaky Shower Drain – Part 3</a>.
Let me know if that's the right part.
Thanks,
Bob
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By: Sid
Bob,
Fantastic instructions. I have a leaky shower drain. It is not gushing or anything but has made an ugly spot on the first floor ceiling now from the small drips.
Can you please suggest what type of shower drain I have
Here’s the picture.
http://tinypic.com/r/289bgg1/8
I think it is SiouxChief 829 series. Here are the links
The top strainer body ring is not coming out. I think it is held by the locknut.
Any suggestions on how to fix the leaky drain without cutting the drywall at the first floor.
Thanks,
Sid.
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By: Bob Jackson
Hi Sid,
Your drain is a <a href="http://www.siouxchief.com/products/drainage/residential/shower-drains/shower-module/no-caulk-827-828/no-caulk-shower-module-drain" title="Sioux Chief No-Caulk Shower Module Drains" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Sioux Chief</a> <a href="http://www.siouxchief.com/docs/default-source/technical-documents/installations/drainage/828-series---no-caulk-shower-module-drain---installation-guide.pdf" title="Sioux Chief No-Caulk Shower Module Drain 828 Series" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">No-Caulk Shower Module Drain model 828</a> with a brass body and compression lock nut - at least it looks like tarnished brass in the photo.
You'll need a drain wrench to remove the compression lock nut. I've outlined in red three of the eight lock nut teeth in <a href="http://www.handymanhowto.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-Co-Made-in-Thailand-Model-828-Brass-Shower-Drain.jpg" title="Lock Nut Teeth on the Sioux Chief No-Caulk Shower Module Drain 828 Series" target="_blank" rel="lightbox" rel="nofollow">your photo</a> for clarity.
I have a <a href="http://www.bulldogdraintool.com/bulldogdraintool/Home.html" title="BULLDOG shower drain wrench product site" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">BULLDOG shower drain wrench</a> and it's a very good tool.
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Fixing your leaky shower drain may be easy while replacing it could be difficult...
<strong>Easy Repair: Try this first</strong>
Hopefully the compression lock nut has become a little loose and the compression gasket hugging the PVC drain pipe is leaking. Tighten the compression lock and see if the leak stops.
<strong>Better Repair: Replace the Compression Gasket</strong>
Buy a new Sioux Chief 828 compression gasket; you might have to buy a whole new drain module to get the gasket.
Remove the compression lock nut and pull out the old compression gasket. Clean the outside of the PVC drain pipe so there's no dirt to interfere with the new compression gasket seal. Install the new compression gasket by sliding it over the drain pipe per paragraph 4 of the <a href="http://www.siouxchief.com/docs/default-source/technical-documents/installations/drainage/828-series---no-caulk-shower-module-drain---installation-guide.pdf?sfvrsn=6" title="Sioux Chief No-Caulk Shower Module Drain 828 Series Installation Instructions" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">installation instructions</a>. Install the compression lock nut and tighten with the drain wrench.
<strong>Last Resort: Replace the Entire Shower Drain</strong>
If the above repairs don't work then the leak is at the large flat rubber sealing washer against the bottom of the shower pan that's held tight by the outer lock nut. The problem with replacing the shower drain module is the outer lock nut is located below the shower pan and can't be reached unless a hole is cut in the 1st floor ceiling. Once you saw an access hole in the ceiling the job is straightforward per the Sioux Chief installation instructions.
A <a href="http://www.handymanhowto.com/bauco-architectural-drywall-access-panels/" title="bauco Architectural Drywall Access Panels" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">bauco drywall access panel</a> is needed to finish the ceiling hole and it will take care of the ugly water stain.
Let me know which repair works for you.
Thanks,
Bob
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By: Sam
Hello. I have a brass flange and I’m sure there is a nut holding it from the bottom. Just wondering is there any way to remove the show drain flange without me cutting a hole in my ceiling? I tried to hack saw the drain but not working out too well.
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By: Bob Jackson
Can you e-mail photos of your drain? I might be able to identify the drain type and better advise you. Send to bob [at] handymanhowto.com
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By: Mary Rose
Would the issue still be the shower drain if the shower has not been used since 8:30am and it is currently 8:08pm?
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By: Bob Jackson
Can you describe in more detail what’s you’re seeing?
But “yes” a shower drain leak will wet the subfloor and ceiling below which will stay damp for days because there’s no air circulation.
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By: barbie bolton
a young grandma thanks for all your help and mostly for your kindness and knowledge of repairs and plumbing
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By: oregon
I am trying to fix a 12 yr old walk-in fiberglass shower drain which is leaking, the shower is on the 2nd floor and the leak is in the garage underneath it. I am unable to remove the shower drain following your instructions, is this welded shower drain? pls help in how to remove this and replace with a wingtite or other quality drain.
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By: Bob Jackson
Hi,
Your photo is low resolution 640x480 pixels so I couldn't read the numbers on the flange except that it's an Oatey drain.
Notice the four square notches inside the drain? The notches are for a <a href="http://www.oatey.com/products/drains-and-closet-flanges/shower-drains-for-preformed-bases/no-calk-shower-drain-accessories" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">shower drain wrench</a> to unscrew the strainer body. The drain may be difficult to unscrew because the drain flange is sealed with silicone caulk to the shower pan or maybe Plumber's Putty. To unscrew the drain:
* Heat the strainer body flange with a blow dryer to soften the caulk. It may take 10 mins to get it very warm.
* Set the drain wrench in the notches. Hold it firmly in place and unscrew the drain. It may take some effort to break the initial bond.
If you're still having problems unscrewing the drain use a sharp utility knife to very carefully cut pie-slices in the drain flange - say at 12, 2, 4, 6, 9 and 10 o'clock positions. Take care not to cut the shower pan. Now pry up the drain flange slices with a thin flat blade screwdriver just enough to break the caulk bond. Protect the shower pan with a piece of cardboard under the screwdriver. You should be able to unscrew it now with the drain wrench. Slow and careful wins the day.
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By: Rhonda Stone
have a shower fiberglass shower and a fiberglass tub shower in house that leak from the bottom and i have concrete floors when i use them to take a bath water pours from under the bottom and runs all over the floor.. how can i repair that myself without calling a plumber have talked to serveral and they tell me it will be real expensive and may need to completely take out both of them and replace them.. major repair.. after reading your posts i realize that i may can do that myself.. just have to get the right tools my house is 30 years old roughly
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By: Bob Jackson
A shower/bathtub combination unit will have a bathtub drain which is way simpler to repair compared to a shower drain.
The bathtub drain flange screws into the drain shoe from the top. See <a href="https://www.plumbingsupply.com/how-to-remove-a-bath-tub-drain-flange.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">How to Remove A Bathtub Drain Flange</a> and <a href="https://www.plumbingsupply.com/how-to-install-tub-drain-flange.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">How To Install A Bathtub Drain Flange</a>.
You can get the <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Tub-Drain-Remover-HDX170/204218645" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Tub Drain Remover Tool</a> at Home Depot. An adjustable wrench is also required to turn the drain tool.
I recommend replacing the <a href="https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/tub-overflow-diagram.png" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">drain shoe rubber gasket</a> per Steps 3 and 4 of <a href="https://www.plumbingsupply.com/how-to-install-tub-drain-flange.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">How To Install A Bathtub Drain Flange</a>. The drain gasket costs about $2 (<a href="https://www.plumbingsupply.com/watco-bathtub-drains-and-replacement-parts.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">see item #4 part #10696</a>), so best to replace it too for peace of mind.
Also see <a href="http://www.homerepairtutor.com/bathtub-drain-repair/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">How to Perform a Bathtub Drain Repair for Under $20</a> which has step-by-step photos.
Thanks,
Bob
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By: Bob Jackson
Thanks for the advice! The <a href="http://www.proflo.com/proflo/showRecordDetail.do?R=PROD_999025" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">ProFlo PFP600</a> shower drain appears to be interchangeable with the <a href="http://plasticoddities.com/fiberglass-shower-drain-2/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Plastic Oddities PFG-600</a>. Both have course threads and I later bought the PFG-600 which also fit my drain perfectly. The PFG-600 was recommended by <a href="https://www.handymanhowto.com/how-to-fix-a-leaky-shower-drain-part-4/#comment-1257" target="_blank">another reader</a>.
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By: joann calvetti
I have metal or copper shower drain with ceramic tile shower floor// The drain at top where it meets floor has a rusted hole and water running on to ceiling below// Is there (ANYTHING) out there that i can use for a patch//
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By: Bob Jackson
Maybe <a href="https://www.jbweld.com/products/waterweld-epoxy-putty" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">JB WaterWeld Epoxy Putty</a> would work?
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By: Joann
Thanks Bob but rust was not the problem /I found that the water was NOT coming from the shower drain or the tile floor// or the spout or the divert er// OMG// where could it be coming from// It’s dripping close to the ceiling wall under the shower//a good drip// I see leaks ONLY when i turn on shower// has a one handle divert er/ Pushed toilet paper all around diverter and nothing// the hole is dry// How could this be// where is the water coming from// the spout pipe is dry//
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By: Bob Jackson
Try removing the shower arm again, clean the threads on the arm and inside the drop ear elbow. Rewrap the shower arm threads with plumber’s tape and see if that fixes the leak. Add one or two extra wraps with the tape than before.
If that doesn’t fix it the leak could be coming from the inlet pipe joint at the bottom of the drop ear elbow. It’s typically a solder joint where the copper supply pipe enters the elbow. To fix that you should call a plumber because an access hole will have to be cut in the drywall to repair the joint. See https://www.handymanhowto.com/finishing-a-basement-bathroom-part-7/ for shower plumbing details. Note that I used a SharkBite drop ear elbow which has a push-joint connection that doesn’t require soldering (https://www.handymanhowto.com/finishing-a-basement-bathroom-part-8/).
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